Fabric Manipulation

For my final uni project of this year I am designing a capsule collection.  My starting point is who am I? One of the obvious starting points for my research was paper.  I blogged a little bit about my paper addiction here.

As I have started to collate paper/envelopes/old photos and books I have decided to focus on the details of the stationary – the fastenings, patterns and colours.

I haven’t designed any garments (on paper) yet but have loads of ideas swimming around in my head. 

How’s about a selection of Pinterest highlights?  You can have a look at all my Pinterest boards and pins here.

Present and Correct are a great starting point – they create (and pin) some lovely compositions:

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I have found lots of different ways of manipulating fabric ( I have a whole board dedicated to the subject!) but I have a few pinned to my capsule collection board that are really relevant:

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Innovative textile design with flexible geometric structure using fabric backed wooden triangles – hard and soft, 2D to 3D;

Elisa Strozyk.

 

This mirrors the patterns found on graph paper like this:

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(image – present and correct).

There are also emerging designers (along with the old masters!) that are using textile innovation to create new and exciting textures and shapes:

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‘Void’ collection (2012), Yvonne Laufer, http://www.afflante.com

Yvonne Laufer developed various laser cut techniques based on the concept of negative space. Some cut outs leave space for a second layer or another fabric, others form some kind of modern lace.

Read more: http://afflante.com/20564-beautiful-void-fashion-collection-yvonne-laufer/#ixzz2zkJh7XE2

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Florian Krautli – http://www.creativereview.co.uk

Magnetic curtain with flexible geometric structure that can be shaped into different 3D forms; Florian Krautli.

I could go on but I won’t. If you want to see more, this is my fabric manipulation board.  I don’t claim to have pinned everything but you can cut your teeth on it.

Finally, look at the use of texture on this garment from Cristian Samfira, simple and stunning:

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Culture by Cristian Samfira, A/W 2013/14

I am itching to get back in to the workroom on friday, I will be starting to try some ideas out on the the stand and finally getting those ideas down on paper.

R x

 

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My new fashion crush – Jean Paul Gaultier

The fashion world of Jean Paul Gaultier – From the sidewalk to the catwalk’ opened at the Barbican in London last week.  The exhibition is dedicated to the French designer and covers all the iconic moments of his 40 year career, as well as the lesser known costumes for film and dance.
My favourite part of this exhibition: being allowed to take photos! Here is a few;

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Jean Paul as a mannequin welcoming us to the exhibition,  very clever use of projection on all the mannequin’s faces.

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His muses – there were many more, including the lovely Kylie;

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Kylie ‘ s tour costume.

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Detail from the iconic Madonna corset, along with other beautiful lingerie inspired creations;

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The highlight of my visit ….. the chance to see Jean Paul in conversation with the fabulous Suzy Menkes;

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He was his usual charismatic self, open and honest. He spoke very very fast in his lovely french accent so I really had to tune in and concentrate to make sure I didn’t miss anything. He discussed his career in general, along with the highs and lows.
He spoke frequently about his boyfriend Francis who tragically died of AIDS in 1990, discussed the time he served with Cardin and Patou in his early career and other designers he had encountered and mentored over the years, such as Yves St Laurent and Martin Margiela (who he spoke very fondly of). He even treated us to some lighthearted banter about the making of eurotrash.
The Barbican (along with the Montreal Museum of fine Art) have yet again achieved  an imaginative exhibition which makes you feel like you are in the world of Gaultier, with creative displays and sets,  the moving faces on the mannequin’s and revolving catwalks.
The exhibition continues until 25th August so there is plenty of time to go and visit.
R x